Building Your Business Wardrobe: Know your suits

Sizes

It sounds obvious, but it's not. The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. Before you step into a dressing room, get a handle on the various components of a suit.

1) Shoulders:

The suit's shoulders should hug yours. The shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders.

2) Chest:

You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn't be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist's worth.

3) Length:

When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch or two beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.

Buttons

Think about the style of the suit you're buying. The first thing you need to consider is the number of buttons on the suit. This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit.

The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s; it now seems to be the standard young man's choice. Instead of opting for one of those high-cut versions, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.

For years the two-button suit was the go-to conservative, Capitol Hill getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they're making them more streamlined and modern. This cut is what's most in style right now—and it's the most versatile, looking good on almost every body type.

If you're looking for something rakish, a bit more high-style, try a one-button suit. It's not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, it's a sleek look.

Vents

Think about the vents on the back of the suit jacket.

A center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can't go wrong.

Side vents are more European, a bit more suave. They also add a little more shape to your suit. A ventless jacket, by the way, is a definite no. It says you think it's still 1986.


Lapels

Think about the type of lapel.


A notch lapel—what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You're always safe with a notch lapel. Go for one on the narrow side, which will have a more modern, slimming effect.










A peak lapel is more old-school and elegant. And now it's enjoying a comeback with high-fashion and business crowds alike. It makes a statement. Just don't get them too wide—you don't want to look like a Sopranos extra.